Japan Summer 2024 - Day 16 • Shimonada to Imabari

June 09, 2024

Japan Summer 2024 - Day 16

June 13, 2024

Shimonada to Imabari 87 Km

Start 6:14 AM Finish 5:35 PM

Total Duration 11:21

Moving Time 5:01

Stopped Time 6:21

Ascent 426m

Descent 430m

Tour Total 1633Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/189819683

I slept well aside the giant concrete sea walls at the port of Shimonada. It was pitch dark when I went to bed. The hazy sky obscured the moon and stars. I could see shoreline lights far in the distance which were ostensibly from Honshu. The concrete pavement was hard, but my Thermarest can get me through just about anything. I left both tent fly flaps open.

This morning the sun started streaming through my tent early, and I could hear people fishing nearby. A couple was not twenty feet from my tent, and their car was parked on the other side of the wall.

It was a quick pack up and I was able to shake the beach sand out of my tent. At 6am, just before departing, a short song played over the speakers. I found a nearby bathroom before riding out of town. Pedaling up Highway 378 I was happy to see that my radar was once again working through my Wahoo. There was moderate motor traffic as I cycled up the coast.

I stopped at a Yamazaki konbini for a Craft Boss latte and fruit cake. I then followed the coast north for a bit. The highway then snaked it's way up and away from the coast. I flew down the other side of the climb and found myself on back on Highway 56. While riding into Matsuyama I noticed children donned in their yellow hats who were walking to school.

The annoying thing about cycling in Japanese cities and towns are the crosswalk lights. Here pedestrians and cyclists stop and wait at crosswalks, even if no traffic is coming. I don't want to stand out and be a jerk, so I stand there and wait. While riding across a town those seconds can begin to add up. In addition, the crosswalks for bicycles are around the corner which increases travel distance and time. Often when making a right-hand turn I have to wait for two sets of lights. Like is the US, the system is set up for motor vehicles.

Highway 56 continued through the sprawl and there was substantial bicycle traffic on the sidewalks. High school students in their uniforms were riding to school. I was neck and neck with one guy for miles. He had a large load in his front basket. It drove me crazy that his helmet strap wasn't fastened.

Matsuyama, population 507,000, is Shikoku’s largest city. I rode into the central area and then cycled around the Shiroyama park. I could spot the Matsuyama Castle up on the hill.

I then went to the Dōgo Onsen Honkan, a 19th-century public bathhouse built over an ancient hot spring. It's said to be the oldest onsen in Japan. The exterior was being renovated, yet I was able to go inside for a cleaning and soak. My body has never been cleaner on a bike tour. For those keeping track we're talking negative levels. On my first cross country tour we set up a scale for cleanliness. 1 being normal, and 5 essentially being unfit for society. Here in Japan I'm consistently bathing multiple times a day. I'm pulling negative numbers on the scale and am approaching Buddha level.

Following the onsen I rode over to Ishite-ji (Henro temple #51). It was a large impressive complex and I learned a new addition to my routine. After ringing the bell I'm now walking around it. These bells are ginormous, and the sonics are fantastic.

I then went to Dogo Votake for an amazing lyo Douraku lunch meal along with two pints of draft beer, ice cream, and coffee. Afterwards I stopped at Cycle Base Asahi to pump up my tires. I spoke with a mechanic and got my front wheel axle tightened, front derailleur tuned, and new brake pads installed.

Riding out of town my brakes felt tight once again. When I started this trip the pads had been brand new. Previously on tours, I've never had to replace brake pads. I've only been out for two weeks, yet the hills here are steeeeeep.

I was on four-lane divided Highway 196. I rode through two large diameter tunnels, that were short in length. I was then met with the strong headwind. I was riding a twenty foot wide asphalt bike/pedestrian lane. It was hot and hazy, and the sun was strong.

As I got closer to Imabari, numerous islands sprouted up in the sea in front of me. The highway merged down to two lanes and my shoulder became nonexistent. I stopped at a Family Mart for a cold melon drink, and booked a ryokan in Imabari

I stopped at Enmei-ji (Henro temple #54). It was 5pm and I didn't hear a chime. I rode into town to the Komecho Ryokan. The small ryokan slippers have constantly been an issue, especillay with stairs. It's even more of an issue when I'm carrying my bags. My room was on the third floor.

I went to Yakitori Park for the regional specilaty, grilled chicken and vegetables. There I met Peter, whom I had first met in 2021 in Utah on the Western Express. The touring cycling work is small and tight! After dinner we rode around town and Peter showed me the castle. He's been living here for two years teaching English. He was able to answer a lot of my questions.