Japan Summer 2024 - Day 19 • Kitakyushu (Kyushu) to Kunisaki

June 06, 2024

Japan Summer 2024 - Day 19

June 16, 2024

Kitakyushu (Kyushu) to Kunisaki 163 Km

Start 5:17 AM Finish 6:34 PM

Total Duration 13:17

Moving Time 8:50

Stopped Time 4:28

Ascent 984 m

Descent 993 m

Tour Total 2021 Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/191209479

I slept for only four hours on the ferry to Kyushu. My alarm had been set for 5am, but announcements started blaring at 4:30. I quickly put my bike back together and began pedaling out of Kitakyushu.

I stopped at a Lawsons for a Craft Boss latte and two donuts; one plain and the other chocolate. I was wearing my clean kit, and my brand new socks were already scuffed with grease and a hole was emerging.

I rode away from the port on four-lane Highway 199. Ginormous mountains could be seen to the east and south. I pedaled along the water's edge for about thirty minutes to where my route segment began in Mojiko. The architecture here seemed more varied, and I noticed two Christian churches.

I rode underneath the huge Kanmon bridge which connects Honshu and Kyushu. Pedestrians and cyclists are not permitted on the bridge, but for them there's a long tunnel. I climbed my first Kyushu hill and then coasted back down to sea level. I was having some difficulty getting into my small front chain ring.

At 7 AM I went through my first set of tunnels. I was on four-lane highway 25 aka the Kitakyushukani Kaki Road, and passed the 2km Kitakyushu Airport Access Bridge. I was pedaling along a cycling path adjacent to the highway. I stopped at a 7-Eleven for two onigeri and a grapefruit peach drink. I needed the boost.

The route brought me to a bike path alongside the Ima river. After a few kilometers I found myself on two-lane Highway 58 with moderate traffic. At 10:15am I stopped at Metase no mori Market for some noodles and egg, along with a can of Gokujo beer. The place was packed, and I was able to do a little bit of charging. My battery pack was still acting strange. When I left the market I found myself on Bicycle Route 4 with pavement markings and signage. It always makes me feel more protected being on a dedicated route. Another cyclist passed me on the road while I was riding on the bumpy sidewalk, and I jumped back on the road.

I was on highway 10 and crossed the Tomoeda River. As I was riding into Busan I stopped at a 7-Eleven for a Son Tori peach grapefruit drink and a bottle of cold water. I crossed the Yamakuni River and entered Oita prefecture.

In Usa I stopped at the Usa-Jingu shrine where I admired the large Tori gates, the Kure Bridge, the gardens, and splendid architecture. It was nice to be in the shade of the trees. The main shrine was being restored, and I found a nearby camphor tree to admire. The camphor in Japan has significant spiritual and symbolic importance. The species is among some of the oldest and largest living trees in the country, many of which are protected by the government. People were queuing up to approach the shrine, bowing, dropping coins into a till, and then clapping several times.

I began circling around a land mass that jutted out into the sea. It was short, stubby, and round, and wasn't called a cape. The first part of the was known as the Koikana Road. I passed a park that advertised itself as having the best sunsets in Japan. Highway 213 curved up and down around the coast went through many tunnels. Like on Shikoku I was proceeding clockwise and was riding on the sea side of the road.

At one point the road split and both forks went through tunnels going in different directions. I entered Kuminimi at 4:30 PM and had traveled 141 km. I still had three hours of daylight. There were definitely less services on this land protrusion.

I noticed signs for onsens, but they were several kilometers off route. My iPod battery had died and my radar battery was next. I googled Lawson's and found one 18 km ahead. I decided to go for it.

I stopped at the Roadside station Kunimi, and tried to charge my devices with the power bank. I resorted to an outlet in the bathroom. I purchased an Oita Hitanashi Cider and an Oita Kabosa cider along with some homemade kimchi. The store closed at 5pm, and I was able to manage a little recharging.

I could see Himeshima Island off the beautiful coast, and it started to sprinkle. Riding into Kunisaki, there was a nice bike line along the water. It was super hazy today. At times I thought I could make out islands in the water. I passed signs for shrines that were kilometers off route.

Little crabs were running back-and-forth across the path. I passed a park that had an outlet in the bathroom. Nearby I found a Lawsons where I purchased provisions including a new battery pack. I edited this report at a picnic table after witnessing a splendid sunset.