Japan Summer 2024 - Day 22

June 19, 2024

Minamiaso to Kumamoto 85 Km

Start 5:34 AM Finish 3:06 PM

Total Duration 9:32

Moving Time 5:34

Stopped Time 3:57

Ascent 983 m

Descent 1,470 m

Tour Total 2306 Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/192259621

I slept well last night next to the source of the Shirakawa river. My tent was wedged between two picnic tables. The ground was damp being that it was next to a gurgling stream. This morning when I woke up there was condensation on the bottom of my Thermarest and the bottom of my tent. My Thermarest has developed a tiny hole, and I've begun having to re-inflate it in the middle of the night.

A reader asked about stealth camping in Japan. One of my touring super powers is that I can sleep anywhere. Especially now that I travel with Mack's ear plugs. I've been caught a few times on other tours and each occasion ended with a good story. In my mind, the worst thing that could happen is to be asked to move. In Chile I was asked for $5. In Mexico I was asked to come up to the house for food, beer, and mezcal. I always set up after dark and am gone soon after the sun comes up. I leave not a single trace. Last night it's possible that I could have stayed in a nearby campground, and I didn't check to see if it was open. I've been told that the campgrounds here don't necessarily have electrical outlets. Last night I wanted to be in a special place. Japanese friends have told me to camp at temples, but I'm uncomfortable doing that. I don't want to be disrespectful. I've been told that it's technically illegal. Japanese people are incredibly polite.

This morning the birds started chirping at 4:30 am, and it was time to get up. I used the fake log picnic tables to pack up, and then made my way out through the charming stone-walled village. When I reached the route I got a little turned around, and then I began riding alongside agricultural fields.

The valley was ringed by tall mountains, and I knew I had a big climb between here and Kumamoto. I've now been seeing images of Kumamon, the adorable black bear mascot that originated in Kumamoto. It was created in 2010 for a campaign to draw tourists to the region after the Kyushu Shinkansen line opened.

The route did a strange dog leg and there was a camera icon on the map. I saw nothing in the distance, and wondered what was in store. I then discovered the Takamori Yusui Tunnel Park. In 1975 the Kyushu Central Intersection Railway began digging a tunnel and they hit a large amount of water. They couldn't stop the flow and it dried up eight springs in the area. The tunnel construction was cancelled, and in 1994 it became a park. Water was gushing out of the entrance. The tunnel didn't open until 9AM. After the hundreds of tunnels that I've ridden through I wasn't about to give these engineers a hard time for one mishap. I continued to ride past greenhouses and cattle.

My radar wasn't working again today. I had forgotten to start it when I left my campsite. When I finally turned it on, I couldn't get it to sync with my wahoo.

The air was chilly and I was wearing my gilet in addition to my short-sleeve jersey and bib-shorts. The road went from jenky one-lane to finished two-lanes with pavement markings. I was on highway 28 and the route exited 28 right before it entered a tunnel. I would be crossing Mount Tawara via switchbacks. I pulled over to remove my gilet for the steep climb. Mist was rising from the valley.

At 7:30 AM as I was summiting Mount Tawara I saw another badger. At the top there was a parking lot and trail leading up to a lookout, which I rode in hopes of a sign to document. I then began the descent and was soon back on highway 28. I think tomorrow on the return, I'll stick to 28 and go through then tunnel.

I came to a bridge with supports shaped like a giant X. I had seen Kuwatsuru Ohashi Bridge from up on the pass. I then I found myself descending alongside the Kiyama river through a thick forest. Rice patties began to emerge when I reached the valley. And then the Kumamoto sprawl began. I came to a construction area where they were widening the highway. I stopped at Lawson's for a Craft Boss latte and a pair of biscuit doughnuts.

Kumamoto, population 738,907, was severely damaged in the 2016 magnitude 6.2 earthquake, and much of the city is still being rebuilt. After the construction I enjoyed an asphalt bike Lane alongside the four-lane main road.

In the center of town I first went to the Suizenji Garden, and I was captivated by the grass mound replica of Mt. Fuji. There was a shrine, where I noticed etiquette instructions. First do a half bow, then a full bow, then two claps followed by a full bow, and then a half bow. I wish I had known this weeks ago. Better late than never. After the park I decided to ride to Unganzenji Temple on the other side of town at Reigando Cave. It involved another steep climb through dense forest. I was captivated by the puffy cotton ball cedar trees and bamboo groves. I then came to terraced lemon orchards. My Apple maps cycling route ended at a parking lot with a large figurative effigy. I left my bike and walked down a path to the entrance of the temple and cave. The carved steps were worn and wet, and covered with moss. I was wearing my sandals with SPD cleats and almost slipped. Reigando Cave is where legendary swordsman Miyamoto Musashi (1584–1645) spent the last two years of his life. A mossy hillside was dotted with seated stone figures, many of them headless.

A reader asked how I secure my bike and gear when I'm visiting a shrine. Reigando Cave was in the middle of nowhere. I left my bike unlocked with my handlebar bag containing my passport and $1000 cash. My laptop was in my pannier. In a city I would probably cable lock my rear tire or fasten my bike to something. The handlebar bag would come with me, but my laptop, dirty clothing, and sleeping bag would be there for anyone who knew how to unclip an Ortlieb pannier. I trust things here.

I met a friendly local couple in the parking lot who bought me a Coke. It was sweltering. I then rode back down into Kumamoto to visit the. It's one of the largest in Japan, and was badly damaged in the 2016 earthquake. They were still making repairs, and I noticed stacks of stones and warehouses storing artifacts. It reminded me of an archaeological site. The north side was only open on weekends so I rode my bike around the south entrance. The wooden castle keep was impressive, and I read that it's been repaired many times. There was also earthquake in 1889. It was sunny and brutally hot. Before leaving I enjoyed a sword fight performance.

I enjoyed the modern architecture and street cars in town, as I rode to my hotel and checked in. I was asked to leave my bike in the lobby. I did laundry, shaved and showered. I uploaded photos from the past few days to my reports and then met up with my Makiko, my Japanese teacher from New York. She grew up in Kumamoto, and was spending the summer here with her family. I had told her that I wanted to try the local specialty basashi, which is raw horse meat. She brought me to a local place that I never would have found on my own. It was amazing. We had a great evening talking about Japan, New York, teaching, and everything in between.

I walked back to my hotel and rolled up all of my gear that had been spread out to dry. It's supposed to rain for the next week, and tomorrow the rain is forecast to be heavy. Adversity brings good stories.