Japan Summer 2024 - Day 8 • Nara to Koyasan

June 17, 2024

Japan Summer 2024 - Day 8

June 5, 2024

Nara to Koyasan 92 Km

Start 7:38AM Finish 4:14PM

Total Duration 8:36

Moving Time 6:17

Stopped Time 2:19

Ascent 1321m

Descent 557m

Tour Total 783Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/186569494

I slept well last night in room 220 of the Onyado hotel in Nara. I had a nice dinner featuring traditional Nara fare at Meshi Itadakiya. Afterwards I had a good soak in the hotel onsen. The sun started blasting through my window at 5 AM and I was able to roll over and get another hour of sleep.

The hotel had allowed me to keep my bike in the lobby, and in the morning it was surrounded by stanchions and had special tags attached. I pedaled to the beginning of the next route segment and was happy to be back on Julia's route. I followed blue chevron bike lane markings on my way out of town.

I was wearing my short sleeve jersey, bib shorts, UV arm protectors, and socks. The sun was strong, and the air was cool. Children wearing yellow hats were on their way to school.

Once out of town I found myself on a fantastic bike lane running alongside the Sahogawa river. I was in a

wide valley ringed by tall mountains. After ten kilometers I stopped at a Lawson's for a Craft Boss latte and a chocolate mochi bread.

I passed four impressive golf driving ranges today. The structures were ginormous, consisting of huge metal towers supporting nets to keep the balls contained. The driving areas were double-deckered.

The route led me through a labyrinth of communities, and in between I found myself on fantastic bike lanes running alongside canals and streams. The blue chevron markings led much of the way. I eventually noticed a pavement marking indicating that I was on the Keinawa Cycle Path that led to Wakayama.

I noticed many locals out tending to their plants. At one point I could smell the aroma of sandalwood incense in the air. I wound my way through more fields and houses and climbed up over a ridge. I descended down to the Yoshino river Valley, which I began following downstream. I was continuing to follow the blue chevron trail markings. I rode by a large timber operation and lumber mill.

I found myself on two-lane Highway 39 with minimal motor traffic. It was flat and I could really crank out some distance. I took another road and wound up and highway 55. I eventually entered Wakayama prefecture.

By noon, I had ridden 67 km. I stopped at a roadside vending machine for a ginger ale. At 12:30 I began riding a fantastic bike path alongside the Kinokawa river

I knew that I had a big climb ahead, at stopped at a Lawsons for two onigiri and a grapefruit drink. I

left Julia's route and began climbing up the side of a mountain to Koyasan. It was a steep one-lane road through the forest. There were lots of switchbacks and hair pin turns through the cedar trees and bamboo. Some sections were ridiculously steep, and I had to hike a bike.

The climbing was brutal whenever I found myself direct sunlight. At one point, a cyclist passed me going down the hill. The climb was a monster and I had run out of water. I had neglected to fill all of my bottles this morning.

I eventually found a garden hose and faucet and refilled my supply. I would be staying at a pilgrim's lodging at Ren'gejo-in Temple and needed to be checked in by 5pm, when a meditation session began. I got to Koyasan in time to tour Kongobu-ji temple, before I headed over to my accommodations.

I've been visiting a lot of temples, former villas, and castles, and have gotten an idea of what aristocratic life was like here back in the day. What can I say? I prefer participation to spectatorship. I splurged tonight and am staying in an actual temple. The gardens are amazing. My room is stunning. I actually got to practice meditation with Buddhist monks in a temple. And then dinner was fantastic. It's an experience that I'll never forget.