Japan Summer 2024 - Day 1 • Tokyo to Fujiyoshida

Japan Summer 2024 - Day 1
May 27, 2024
Tokyo to Fujiyoshida - 124 Km
Start AM
Finish PM
Total Duration 8:51
Moving Time
Stopped Time
Ascent 1728m
Descent 977m
Tour Total 124 Km
Details at:

I woke before my 7am alarm, and noticed that it was cloudy and windy outside. I checked out of the Mitsui Garden Hotel and rode out of Gotanda on a bike bike path running alongside the Meguro River. I was wearing my jersey, bib shorts, socks, and sandals. I returned to the busy six-lane boulevard that I had ridden last night to meet Mihane. The roadway paralleled the river.

I found Tokyo to be rather drab. Aside from a few notable exceptions, the architecture was not especially interesting. That said, it's clean. There's no garbage or graffiti. I heard not a single horn honk.

I rode 35 minutes west to get to reach my first route segment. Between the large boulevards Google Maps wound me through small alleys. I stopped at train track crossing as it began to drizzle. It was 72°F with a slight mist. I stopped at 7-Eleven for a Starbucks iced latte, a seaweed & golden sesame rice ball along with a spicy Pollock Roe wedge. It was a much healthier fare than what I was used to for a bike tour breakfast, and the total came to about three dollars.

I came to a road construction zone, and there were several workers standing alongside the road with pylons, flashing signals, and orange uniforms. They were very friendly, and bowed as I went by.

And then I came to the Tama River and got on a bike/pedestrian path that ran atop a levy alongside the river. I was no longer contending with motor traffic. The drizzle was holding, but the wind was strong. At 9:45am massive mountains could be seen in the distance ahead.

The route broke away from the river, and after a distance I began following the Okuri River. I noticed that people were carrying umbrellas, but it hadn't started raining. The precipitation was holding.

The river forked and I the route broke away from the stream. I kept climbing as the mountains became closer. I was still on the outer fringes of metropolitan Tokyo. I was surrounded by new housing developments, box stores, and sprawl.

I rode through the tour’s first first tunnel, and remember having heard that there are many. I rode across the Shiroyama Dam on the Sagami River. I passed a large reservoir and entered Tsukuiko Shiroyama Park. I was climbing, and there were large mountains to either side as I rode up through the valley.

Because I was following someone else's route, I could see where they had made mistakes and where they took their stops. I accidentally followed the route to the end of the segment, where they had ended and camped. I earned myself an extra steep downhill and uphill that could have avoided if I had been paying attention.

By 1 PM I was on a two-lane Route 413 with virtually no motor traffic. There were houses and fields to either side of the road. I was in a valley flanked by lush green hills. Every yard was planted. The sky was gray and cloudy.

After a steep uphill, I stopped and made my first vending machine purchase. Vending machines are ubiquitous in Japan. The bottle of lemon tea set me back ¥120 or 76¢.

I returned to Route 413 and crossed a bridge over the Nishi Hashi river. The sun was breaking through the clouds, and I stopped to put on some sunscreen. I stopped at 7-11 for lunch, and enjoyed my fare around the corner from the entrance. I had stir-fried noodles, pork & cabbage, pasta salad with fried chicken, egg sauce and yuzu dressing, and three bottles of iced tea.

The pocket Wi-Fi that I had rented for the trip had depleted its battery. From here going forward I'd have to keep it turned off while cycling. I plugged in an episode of the Duane train to help me with the climbing. It's illegal in Japan to listen to music on EarPods while cycling, and I stuck my cable underneath my jersey to be stealthy.

I came to a double tunnel, and kept climbing. I stopped at a roadside bathroom. Out front were yellow pansies, and the toilet had a heated seat. I continued riding steep ups and downs. I passed a massive construction project, that was bracing a mountain side to prevent landslides. I then came to tunnel number four.

I passed my first bamboo grove, and I spotted my first rice patty. The headwind was incredible. The two-lane road was mostly lined with buildings, but few of the businesses were open. I noticed restaurants, camping places, car repair shops, and various businesses. Every structure had a garden. I was following the Doshi River to my left.

I was noticing roadside references to Mount Fuji. I stopped at a roadside vending machine stop and relished a cold refreshing cream soda. At 4:16 PM and after 93 km of cycling, I left left Route 413 and crossed the Doshi River to enjoy a one-lane rural road surrounded by rice patties.

After my wonderful short diversion, I returned to Route 413, and entered the town of Doshi. I learned that it had played a prominent role in the 2020 Tokyo Olympics Cycling Road Race.

It was Misty and the road surface was wet, but it was perfect cycling weather for all of the climbing I was doing. My body temperature was perfect. At the crest of the pass I rode through the day’s fifth tunnel. I was at 3620 feet.

I got cold on the downhill, and stopped at a 7-11 in the resort town of Yamanakako. I purchased another seaweed & golden sesame rice ball along with a spicy Pollock Roe wedge. I've noticed in the stores that cash is inserted into a machine instead of handed to a clerk. The change due back is then displayed on a screen. After the customer approves the amount, the coins are mechanically dispensed.

I sat on a little chair out front of the store, and connected my pocket Wi-Fi and began charging my devices. It was forecast to rain throughout the night and then again tomorrow. I was cold and donned my rain jacket. I booked a capsule hotel in the next town of Fujiyoshida. I needed to get a good nights sleep to contend with tomorrow.

As soon as I booked the hotel, the rain and drizzle stopped. I rode out of town on a wonderful bike path alongside Lake Yamanakako, and caught a glimpse of Mount Fuji through the mist.

I arrived at the Cabin & Lounge Highland Station Inn, just as it was getting dark. Mount Fuji reemerged in full splendor. It was my second pod hostel. I was upset that my stats from today’s ride had vanished. I was able to capture an overview, but didn't have a copy of the GPX file. Hopefully it will reappear. I tool a nice warm shower and grabbed three Sapporos and a can of Chip Star potato chips from the Larsons next door. I charged my devices as I edited this report.