Japan Summer 2024 - Day 2 • Fujiyoshida to Fujimi

Japan Summer 2024 - Day 2 
May 28, 2024
Fujiyoshida to - Fujimi 102Km
Start  8:39AM Finish 6:41PM
Total Duration 10:02
Moving Time 7:12
Stopped Time 2:49
Ascent 1549m 
Descent  1429m
Tour Total  226Km

I slept well last night in cozy pod number 225 at the Cabin & Lounge Highland Station Inn in Fujiyoshida. I had weird dreams, one of which involving landing a jet plane atop the Pan Am building in New York. I woke up at 2am and took an ambien to go back to sleep. My alarm went off at 7am, and I got up to go use the bathroom and shave. When I returned, another guest complained that my snooze alarm had gone off and woken everybody else. I hate the snooze function. I never use it. When my alarm goes off, I get up. Why is the snooze function a default?

After I packed up and headed downstairs, I could see that it was pouring rain outside. I had a warm can of vending machine coffee and sat for a moment in the reception area. I was wearing my short sleeve jersey, bib shorts, rain jacket, rain pants, waterproof socks, and wool socks.  I'd forgotten to cover my saddle last night when I locked up my bike in front of the hotel. I slowly loaded up and rode out of town. The ride began by circling around Lake Yamanakako and then I came to my first tunnel.

Fujiyoshida is a huge tourist area. There was a large amusement park with a ginormous roller coaster, not far from my hotel. The lake is beautiful, and when the weather is clear it boasts an impressive view of Mount Fuji. 

I rode to the beginning of the next route section which coincided with a 7-Eleven stop. I got myself a Starbucks Iced Latte, along with two onigiri; tuna mayonnaise and spicy pollock roe. 

The switchbacks began on my way out of town, and the drizzle continued. The condensation turned to mist and I got hot on the climb. The most frustrating part about riding in the rain is not being able to use my phone. The screen doesn't work. I can't use it to navigate, dictate, or take photos. I can manage as long as my GPS unit is working. In terms of clothing, it's all about staying warm and not overheating.

I was sharing the road with moderate motor traffic; cars and trucks. I was getting hot on the climb so I pulled over to remove my rain pants and rain jacket. On the next section there was a light mist and heavy traffic.

I kept climbing and came to a tunnel. The route, however, turned right and avoided the main corridor. There were bear warning signs everywhere. I now had the road to myself. I wound my way to the top of the pass where I eventually encountered a long tunnel. I pulled out my headlight to navigate through the darkness. I was at 4400 feet elevation. I then enjoyed a fantastic serpentine downhill through thick forest. I got chilly on the decent and stopped to put on my gilet. I eventually joined back up with the main road. 

I descended into a large fertile valley filled with vineyards and orchards. I stopped at a 7-Eleven for two more onigiri. I removed my jacket and waterproof socks. It was still misty, but no longer cold. I then navigated small lanes through vineyards and solar farms, and crossed a large bridge over a river. The valley was large, and there small buildings and traffic everywhere. Down in the valley it was much warmer and more humid.

I eventually reached Kofu and rode through the town center. I then continued west and crossed over a rise to the next valley. I began following a set of train tracks west. The valley was filled with single story wooden housing and planted fields. The mist was light and the clouds hung low. I was heading back towards the mountains.

I crossed the Shinkokkai Bridge over the Fujikawa River and continued west. The route veered off Highway 20, and followed a rural path through rice patties. I was surrounded by pools of water and gurgling irrigation ditches. The route returned to route 20, and I was able to ride to the side to avoid the heavy traffic

Route 20 follows the old Nakasendo and I had read about the heavy motor traffic. I rode on the sidewalks and not on the roadway when I could. Tolerances are tight in Japan. I crossed over a large bridge over a large river. The route left Highway 20 at small town where I had a few nice words with a friendly man.

The sun burst through the clouds at 2:30 PM. I stopped at a roadside vending machine for a cream soda. And then it started raining again. I crossed the river again and returned to highway 20. The rain picked up and I was getting soaked. I spied a 7-Eleven at 3:43pm and went for another snack. 

Fujimi pass was 12km ahead and the rain was heavy. The route avoided highway 20 as much as possible, and I kept climbing. The route ended at a guesthouse in Fujimi, which was boarded up when I got there. Fujimi is a ski resort in the winter, but very little was open today. My phone was useless in the rain, and even locked me out for five minutes because the drops had dialed incorrect passwords. I rode towards a collection of businesses, hoping that one of them was a hotel. I stopped at a gas station to use the awning to Google map guesthouses. Two helpful attendants tried to assist me. I was directed back to the guest house where I had just been. I then rode to another lodge which was also closed. I had spied a park, which I figured must have an enclosure. There was a roof over a picnic table and a large restroom building. But first I needed provisions. 

I rode back to a 7-Eleven where I purchased three cans of Sapporo, a can of Jack Daniels Coca-cola, two containers of Chip Star potato chips, and two onigiri; red salmon & salt, and kelp in soy sauce. I was so wet that the machine wouldn't take my 5000 Yen note. I stood there dripping in the store. After the purchase was straightened out I rode back to the park in the pouring rain. I went to the bathroom building, and began setting up in the large handicap stall. I plugged in my devices and slowly began swapping my wet clothing with dry. I set up my sent underneath the enclosure and hung a laundry line to air out my wet clothing. The cell phone service was poor. Yesterday's stats still hadn't appeared. 

I edited this report seated atop the handicap toilet. I've completely made myself at home and my possessions are scattered everywhere. The rain eventually began to subside, which unleashed the mosquitoes.

The rainy season in Japan is known as 梅雨, which also means plum rain. I can verify that today those plums were getting juicy fat. 

Capsule Hotel

Capsule 225

Fuji themed stop lights

Cedar forest

Watch out for Baers

Tunnel # ?

View from the top

First Bike Buddha photo

Rice Paddies

Rice Paddies

Rice Paddies

Rice Paddies

My accommodations for the night

Map / Elevation Profile


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Table of Contents

Japan Summer 2024 - Day 27 • Kushima to Nejime

Japan Summer 2024 - Day 3 • Fujimi to Nojiri