Japan Summer 2024 - Day 3

May 29, 2024

Fujimi to Nojiri 123Km

Start 6:11AM Finish 6:45PM

Total Duration 12:27

Moving Time 7:44

Stopped Time 4:43

Ascent 1197m

Descent 1694m

Tour Total 349Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/183709332

I slept all right in the restroom building at Fujimi Park. It was warm and cozy inside my tent. I had to get up several times during the night to use the nearby toilet. It got cold in the middle of the night and I had to zip up the fly flap and envelope myself in my sleeping bag and silk liner. Birds started chirping around 5am and I could hear human activity. The sun rises early here. It was a slow pack up. There's nothing worse than putting on cold wet clothing first thing in the morning. I made my way back out to Highway 20 and returned to the route. I relished every time the sun appeared. I was wearing my bib shorts, jersey, gilet, rain jacket, buff, leg-warmers, and a fresh pair of socks that I discovered had a hole. I made my way down the other side of the pass. Much of the route paralleled Highway 20. I made my way through small villages and past rice patties.

I could hear frogs croaking. I've never seen so many variations of iris. There are shrines everywhere. I passed a large beautiful tree that stood out, and a large engraved stone had been placed in front. Everything is manicured and taken care of. I was now following a river downstream.

I stopped at a 7-Eleven for a Starbucks and two onigiri. I then continued through the village and went through an arch. I soon came to another arch and arrived at Suwa-taisha Shrine. It was incredible, moving, and I had it all to myself. The complex stood in a grove of tall cedar trees. I was floored by its beauty. I noticed a handful of other tourists, as well as monks in white garb. Many of the structures were being renovated.

I was in a large valley filled with housing, rice patties, and manufacturing. Clouds were obscuring the peaks of the surrounding mountains, but the sun was blazing. The air was still cool. I crossed a river and came into the town of Suwa which had a blue painted bike lane with kanji characters that I couldn't read. There were several channels of the river and one canal. I stopped to visit Takashima Castle. Originally constructed in 1598, it was known as the floating castle at Lake Suwa.

The road tolerances were nerve-racking. At many points I was riding a 30 inch shoulder with a 4 foot drop into a concrete water ditch to my left with motor traffic inches to my right. At another point utility poles inches to my left with zooming motor traffic directly to my right. One bad move and the tour is over.

I rode around Lake Suwa on a bike path. I noticed a small park where people were soaking their feet. There was an area with raised bumps for foot massages. I then came to Suwako Geyser. There was a sulfur smell, and believe I spotted an onsen. It was too early to stop.

I've noticed that every neighborhood has a metal bell tower with traditional acoustic bells as well as electric speakers. Japan is a volcanic island chain prone to earthquakes and tsunamis. The traditional housing stock is wood, and prone to fire.

I've been seeing pachinko parlors where one can play slots. So many people here wear masks. Bushes are decoratively cut with lollipop-like balls.

I began climbing out of the valley. The highway cut through a tunnel, but I climbed a steep hill and went directly up over the top on a narrow road. The hill was incredibly steep, and went straight up with no switchbacks. I dismounted to hike-a-bike. The surrounding cedar trees were beautiful.

After a long slog, I reached the top of the pass at 10:40am. There were large rock slabs with engraving to mark the pass. I went to investigate and found a modern lookout tower where I could admire Lake Suwa below. I could even see Mount Fuji in the distance. I thought about back in the day on the Nakasendo. It must have been amazing to see Fuji, and know the journey was almost over. Every effort has its reward.

The downhill was just as steep, and I felt like my brake pads were almost completely worn out after just three days. There was an off-road section through grass alongside an irrigation canal gushing with water.

I began following another valley filled with houses and cultivated fields. People were out working in their fields or trimming their bushes. The sky was overcast. The route continued to avoid the main highway, and there was virtually no traffic on the narrow roads.

I was hungry, and could see establishments on the highway. I stopped at 本山そばの里 Soba noodle shop. In my primiteve Japanese I asked for the most delicious dish. I have no idea what the server said, but it was amazing. A customer helped me navigate the correct protocal. The lunch was ¥1300 or $8.29.

After my meal, I sat outside at a picnic table and took advantage of the Internet signal. I removed my gilet and donned my UV arm protectors. The sun was now blazing, and I lathered my face and knees with sunscreen. I adjusted my handlebar bag, and should have hung my wet socks in the sun at the beginning of the process. Two friendly men asked me what I was doing. They gave me some sesame bars.

The main road went through a tunnel, but I didn't. I was now following a river upstream. I passed signs for ski areas and rode through a post town. I stopped at the Kiso-Narakawa Road Station and couldn't believe how nice it was. I grabbed a ginger ale from a vending machine and sat outside at a picnic table and took advantage of the WiFi.

I rode through the small village of Kiso Hirasawa with gorgeous traditional wooden houses that lined the main street. Back on Highway 19, the heavy high-speed motor traffic was harrowing.

And then I came to a tunnel, a kilometer in length. It had a narrow sidewalk and railing that 'protected me'. It was another harrowing experience and definitely the longest tunnel I'd ever ridden my bicycle through. That said, it was a lot easier than climbing over the pass. On the other side I noticed a lot of timber operations as well as logging trucks on the highway. The cedar smelled good.

I rode through the small village of Kiso, and then began following the Kiso River down stream. It was a gorgeous area full of cedar trees. I booked a room at an onsen 50km down the road. It was 4pm.

I was riding through a gorgeous valley and noticed snowcap mountains in the distance. And then I ended up back on busy 19 and went through another tunnel. It wasn't too long, and was nicely lit with a wide sidewalk. At 5 PM I began hearing music playing through municipal speakers. It's known as the 5pm chime, and the tune is called 'Yuuyake Koyake'. It's a popular children's song by Shin Kusakawa. The 5pm chime occurs throughout Japan.

The route proceeded on and off highway 19. Some of the off-highway sections were sublime. The river was getting wider and was rushing. I've been surrounded by gurgling water all day.

I crossed the river on another two-lane road and went through another tunnel. It was even longer than the earlier one. It was almost 2 km. Immediately afterwards, I went through another tunnel. I was traveling down hill, and the tunnels were chilly inside. And then I went through another kilometer long tunnel. And then another tunnel. This one was shorter, but I could see yet another tunnel ahead in the distance. I just left my sunglasses off. I didn't have my headlight attached, but my tail light/radar has been blinking all day.

I passed an electric generation plant and was wondering if it was geothermal or hydroelectric. I then rode by what I believe was another hydroelectric plant. Then I came to wear a beautiful emerald colored river emptying into the Kiso. There were two perpendicular placed arched bridges that crossed the two streams. It was dusk and it was getting cooler. I was almost to my destination.

I reached Atera-so Forest Spa and was delighted by the traditional accomodations. My room featured tatami mats and a futon. I spread my wet gear on the non-tatami area to dry. I had a nice long soak in the onsen. I purchased two cup-a-noodle ramens and several cans of Kirin, which I relished while I edited this report.