Japan Summer 2024 - Day 10

June 7, 2024

Anan to Meotoiwa 116 Km

Start 6:19AM Finish 5:57PM

Total Duration 11:38

Moving Time 7:15

Stopped Time 4:23

Ascent 1,092m

Descent 1,086m

Tour Total 1007Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/187354490

I slept well in front of the beachfront restroom building in Anan. After I set up my tent in the pitch dark I sat on a bench to watch the fourth starship flight. There were mosquitoes and bugs, and I had to use my spray. I could hear commotion in one of the nearby houses and I inserted my earplugs to drown out the noise. I could still make out the soothing crashing of nearby waves. I slept fine. I woke up early with the sunrise, and my tent quickly began to get warm. When I exited there were people out and about. A car was now parked not ten feet from my tent. There was some condensation in my fly. I packed up and started riding along the water. It's beautiful here.

It was a tad chilly and I started in my short-sleeve jersey, bib shorts, and socks. The route quickly brought me back to Highway 55 and through a number of tunnels. I passed a pilgrim effegy and then saw an actual pilgrim. I stopped at Lawson's for a Café Boss, and two onigeri. I encountered another pilgrim.

I spotted a beautiful beach, with an island off the coast. I thought about jumping into the water. I've never seen this side of the Pacific or been swimming in it. I rode past a small port. There were a few fishing boats and then I took a wonderful one lane road through a grove of tall cedars. It was hilly. On my descent, I passed another pilgrim, who was cutting a piece of a bamboo on the side of the road.

By 9 AM I had ridden 32 km. The sun was strong, and I stopped to put on my UV arm protectors and lather some sunscreen. I rode into Minami and visited the Yakuōji Temple. It was Henro temple number 23, and was my first. There I met Brandon from Utah, who was doing an abbreviated Henro pilgrimage, and had started a few days ago. He had done the Camino de Santiago a few years ago and was interested in doing a similar pilgrimage. We both complained about how early the sun came up and how our tents got warm in the morning. He mentioned that he had seen monkeys. There were coins placed on each of the steps leading up to the temple. It was the first round temple I'd seen in Japan.

The Henro pilgrimrage or 88 Temple walk follows the legendary footsteps of Kobo Daishi, the monk who attained enlightenment on Shikoku. He established Shingon Buddhism in Japan. Pilgrims traditionally wear hakue (white garments) to signify sincerity of purpose and purity of mind. The sugegasa (straw hat) protects them from sun and rain. The colorful staff is called the kongözue. The routine at each temple is to wash one's hands and then ring the bell. Because I'm not religious and I'm not doing the complete pilgrimage, I didn't feel comfortable doing this.

After visitng the temple I walked across the street and got myself a soft-serve. I then stopped at a road station for a ginger ale and to use their Wi-Fi to upload yesterday's photos. Riding out of town I climbed a 9% grade hill and rode past a timber operation. I cycled through another tunnel and stopped at an observation point, where I again ran into Brandon. He was making good time.

The scenery was splendid, consisting of rolling hills packed with dense forest butted up against the coast. The blue sea was dotted with islands. There was very little motor traffic.

I then rounded a curve and saw a monkey grooming itself in the middle of the road. He ran into the woods when he saw me, so I didn't get a photo. It was at least 3 feet tall. There were palm trees here. I knew I was going to love this island!

I saw more monkeys, and realized that I knew how to say this in Japanese. わたしはさるをみました。Hell yeah! Take that Makiko sensei! I saw even more monkeys and then rode through a double tunnel. Then I pedaled through the Ota tunnel. When I get back to New York and edit this, I'm gonna list every single bridge and tunnel.

I stopped in Mugi, a small fishing village, and searched for restaurants. I went to Mugi 55 Ramen where I had the noko gyokai soba with fish stock along with fried goza, and an Asahi. It was amazing.

The route took a one lane road out of town, where I saw a snake slithering across the road. I ended back on Highway 55. I saw surfers in the water down below alongside an empty beach. I rode through the Uchizuma tunnel. It was a double tunnel. The second was called Furue.

The route veered me away from Highway 55 and I crossed over the Mugi river. I then rode to the adorable Namikiri Fudoson Temple. I was in the middle of nowhere and crossed a modern bridge. I encountered a gate and then entered the small intimate complex. I washed my hands drank from the spring water. I then rang the bell and proceeded underneath the arch. I walked a short path to a small temple wedged behind a tall split cedar tree and lodged underneath a ginormous boulder. It was truly special to have had this experience on my own without crowds or huge lines.

Back on highway 55. I stopped at a a vending machine for cold can of Sprite. I had another nice detour off of 55 that led me over the Shishikui Bridge in Kaiyō and then a quiet curvy one lane road.

I went through another nice village with boats in the harbor. I got back on Highway 55 and went through another tunnel. I had neglected to recharge all my devices last night, which was a big mistake. I've been having to charge them one by one today.

As I was riding down hill into Toyo a cyclist was riding up the hill in the opposite direction. I then came to the end of the route segment. I switched to a segment that I'd gotten from a cyclist who had circumnavigated Shikoku.

I then went through the Aima tunnel. From here, there was only one route which led around the cape. I was riding through an estimated tsunami inundation area.

I rode in into Murato right as the 5pm chime was happening. I ran into fellow tourning cyclist Geoff from Dallas who was doing the Henro in reverse. He spoke Japanses and recommended the Henro helper app which showed guesthouses. He told me about a place where I could wild camp a few kilometers down the road. I purchased some provisions and proceeded.