Japan Summer 2024 - Day 11 • Meotoiwa to Kochi
Japan Summer 2024 - Day 11
June 8, 2024
Meotoiwa to Kochi 119 Km
Start 7:23AM Finish 4:51 PM
Total Duration 9:28
Moving Time 6:47
Stopped Time 2:42
Ascent 984m
Descent 1,000m
Tour Total 1,126 Km
Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/187952174
I slept well last night undernerath the towering split rocks at Meoto Iwa. There was an eerie thick piece of rope (sacred shimenawa) lassoed around the 'Married Couple Rocks' suggesting a tightrope of some kind or circus spectacle. It was been windy when I erected my tent, and I used large rocks to prevent it from being blown away. I was able to sleep in until seven and got a full nights sleep. I didn't want to depart too early because the next temple didn't open until 8am. It was pitch black last night when I uploaded my report. Geoff had mentioned that rain was on its way, which I confirmed on my weather app. I was planning to stay at a hotel in Kochi tonight. The precipitation was forecast to begin this afternoon at 4pm. My pocket Wi-Fi wouldn't allow me to download the Henro Helper app, and I would have to wait until I got to my hotel. I'd like to stay at a few guest houses while I'm here. After I had packed up a local guy walked past my site. He had a fishing rod and was headed down to the water's edge.
The east side of the cape is less inhabited, and as I was riding down to Muroto, I realized this was the most isolated place I'd been in Japan. Most of the other areas had had parallel roads or train lines. Off the coast I could see large ships, and wondered where they were going, and who they were registered to.
Today was Saturday morning and I had landed in Tokyo exactly two weeks ago. I was now definitely in my groove. It was gray and overcast. I was wearing my rank short-sleeve jersey, bib shorts, and socks. I would be doing laundry tonight in Kochi.
I passed the Raiei Temple in Muroto and the towering white statue of Kobo Daishi. I then visited Mikuriyajin Cave. I rounded the cape and remarked how few people were here. Geoff had mentioned last night that this was the off season.
I then came to the turn-off for Hotsumisaki-ji temple (Henro temple #24). The ten percent grade hill switch-backed it's way up the side of the mountain. It took more than thirty minutes to travel the 4km to the top. When I finally reached the summit, I was pleased to see plaques commemorating Nelson Mandela, Mother Theresa, Martin Luther King Jr, and the Dalai Lama. At the temple I mistakenly did everything backwards. I visited the temple, then rang the bell, and then washed my hands. Aside from the leaf blower I had the complex to myself.
I barreled back down the hill and continued forward. I rode past the small Cape Muroto fishing port, and was impressed with the size of the giant seawall. The castle-like walls were taller than the boat masts. Storms must really get nasty here. I stopped at a Yamazaki shop for two Mount Rainier Café lattes and some donuts. I had a funny interaction with the proprietor, who complimented my Japanese. The sun was peeking through the clouds, and I donned my UV arm protectors.
I ran into seventy-two year old Mateus from Munich Germany, who was cycling all over Japan. He had been touring for sixty days and had just done a circuit in Kyushu. Mateus was mostly staying in hotels and guest houses. He didn't think the paid campgrounds were a good value. He mentioned that he would be doing a tour in the states next summer and I gave him my contact information. Imagine two motorists being so collegial.
In Tano I stopped at a road station for some sushi and a ginger ale. The market was bustling and I later realized that I should have eaten at the restaurant. This was probably one of the best places in the world to eat fish.
I then came to the turn-off for Kōnomine-ji temple (Henro temple #24). It was another monsterous steep climb. On my way up I passed the Yasuda Fossil Hunting Site and noticed a family looking for fossils. I had to hike-a-bike some of the steep segments. At the parking lot and gift shop I purchased an iced tea and refilled my water bottle. This time I got it right. I properly washed my hands, rang the bell, and then went to the temple. Kōnomine-ji is the ninth highest of the eighty-eight temples and the highest in Kōchi Prefecture.
On the way down my fingers writhed in pain as I tightly squeezed my brake levers. Once back at sea level I began noticing elevated Tsunami Evacuation Buildings. I was back on Highway 55 which was now parallel in a train line. The west side of the cape was definitely more populated.
In Shimoyama at Cape Oyama the route left Highway 55 to follow the coast and avoid a long tunnel.
In town after town, I passed more four storey Tsunami Evacuation Buildings. It was terrifying to imagine a fifty foot wave barreling through here.
I rode through Aki, which was a good size town with several tall buildings. It was 1:30 PM, and rain was forecast for 5 PM. The route then led me to the amazing Kochi-Aki bicycle path that used the right-of-way from the former Tosa Electric Railway Aki Line. There were a few issues at the start and a construction detour in the middle, but it was mostly fantastic. I rode alongside the water, adjacent to the seawall, past beaches, and through groves of pine trees. It continued for quite a distance, and it was thrilling to be away from the motor traffic. There were several tunnels where the lights activated when I rode through.
The bike path eventually came to an end, and I was dumped back onto Highway 55. I had been enjoying a pretty strong tailwind. I left Highway 55 and got on Route 14. I took a large bridge over the Monobe river. I could see the Kochi airport in front of me, as well as a huge mountain range in the distance.
I rode around the airport, climbed up a small hill, and went through a medium length tunnel. I came to the turn-off for Zenjibu-ji temple (Henro temple #32.) The climb wasn't as severe as the earlier temples, but nonetheless there was an ascent. The hill was jam packed with bamboo, and a large cemetery bordered the road. At the complex I washed my hands and rang the bell. There was a bus full of pilgrims queued up at the temple, so I didn't mount the steps. Adjacent to the temple were radio towers competing for the high ground. There was a great view of the harbor.
Back down at sea level I passed row after row of greenhouses and cemeteries behind the seawall. I made my way through an industrial area alongside the water. I rounded a large bend and could finally see Kochi, population 350,000, in the distance. It was starting to drizzle.
I got to my hotel, and they let me bring my bicycle up to my room. I laundred my jeresy and bib shorts, and began editing this report. For dinner I went to Sake Plate Hotari for the best sashimi I've ever had in my life.
Wild camping along the Shikoku coast at Meotoiwa |
Henro pilgrim |
Raiei Temple in Muroto |
Mikuriyajin Cave in Muroto |
Hotsumisaki-ji temple in Muroto |
Hotsumisaki-ji temple in Muroto |
Hotsumisaki-ji temple in Muroto |
Me and fellow touring cyclist Mateus from Munich Germany |
Nio guardian at Kōnomine-ji temple in Yasuda |
Amazing Kochi-Aki bicycle path |
Bus pilgrims at Zenjibu-ji temple in Nankoku |
Fantastic sashimi at Sake Plate Hotari in Kochi |
Map / elevation profile |
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