Japan Summer 2024 - Day 11 • Meotoiwa to Kochi

Japan Summer 2024 - Day 11
June 8, 2024
Meotoiwa to Kochi 119 Km
Start  7:23AM Finish 4:51 PM
Total Duration 9:28
Moving Time 6:47
Stopped Time 2:42
Ascent 984m 
Descent  1,000m
Tour Total  1,126 Km

I slept well last night undernerath the towering split rocks at Meoto Iwa. There was an eerie thick piece of rope (sacred shimenawa) lassoed around the 'Married Couple Rocks' suggesting a tightrope of some kind or circus spectacle. It was been windy when I erected my tent, and I used large rocks to prevent it from being blown away. I was able to sleep in until seven and got a full nights sleep. I didn't want to depart too early because the next temple didn't open until 8am. It was pitch black last night when I uploaded my report. Geoff had mentioned that rain was on its way, which I confirmed on my weather app. I was planning to stay at a hotel in Kochi tonight. The precipitation was forecast to begin this afternoon at 4pm. My pocket Wi-Fi wouldn't allow me to download the Henro Helper app, and I would have to wait until I got to my hotel. I'd like to stay at a few guest houses while I'm here. After I had packed up a local guy walked past my site. He had a fishing rod and was headed down to the water's edge.

The east side of the cape is less inhabited, and as I was riding down to Muroto, I realized this was the most isolated place I'd been in Japan. Most of the other areas had had parallel roads or train lines. Off the coast I could see large ships, and wondered where they were going, and who they were registered to.

Today was Saturday morning and I had landed in Tokyo exactly two weeks ago. I was now definitely in my groove. It was gray and overcast. I was wearing my rank short-sleeve jersey, bib shorts, and socks. I would be doing laundry tonight in Kochi.

I passed the Raiei Temple in Muroto and the towering white statue of Kobo Daishi. I then visited Mikuriyajin Cave. I rounded the cape and remarked how few people were here. Geoff had mentioned last night that this was the off season.

I then came to the turn-off for Hotsumisaki-ji temple (Henro temple #24). The ten percent grade hill switch-backed it's way up the side of the mountain. It took more than thirty minutes to travel the 4km to the top. When I finally reached the summit, I was pleased to see plaques commemorating Nelson Mandela, Mother Theresa, Martin Luther King Jr, and the Dalai Lama. At the temple I mistakenly did everything backwards. I visited the temple, then rang the bell, and then washed my hands. Aside from the leaf blower I had the complex to myself. 

I barreled back down the hill and continued forward. I rode past the small Cape Muroto fishing port,  and was impressed with the size of the giant seawall. The castle-like walls were taller than the boat masts. Storms must really get nasty here. I stopped at a Yamazaki shop for two Mount Rainier Café lattes and some donuts. I had a funny interaction with the proprietor, who complimented my Japanese. The sun was peeking through the clouds, and I donned my UV arm protectors.

I ran into seventy-two year old Mateus from Munich Germany, who was cycling all over Japan. He had been touring for sixty days and had just done a circuit in Kyushu. Mateus was mostly staying in hotels and guest houses. He didn't think the paid campgrounds were a good value. He mentioned that he would be doing a tour in the states next summer and I gave him my contact information. Imagine two motorists being so collegial.

In Tano I stopped at a road station for some sushi and a ginger ale. The market was bustling and I later realized that I should have eaten at the restaurant. This was probably one of the best places in the world to eat fish.

I then came to the turn-off for Kōnomine-ji temple (Henro temple #24). It was another monsterous steep climb. On my way up I passed the Yasuda Fossil Hunting Site and noticed a family looking for fossils. I had to hike-a-bike some of the steep segments. At the parking lot and gift shop I purchased an iced tea and refilled my water bottle. This time I got it right. I properly washed my hands, rang the bell, and then went to the temple. Kōnomine-ji is the ninth highest of the eighty-eight temples and the highest in Kōchi Prefecture.

On the way down my fingers writhed in pain as I tightly squeezed my brake levers. Once back at sea level I began noticing elevated Tsunami Evacuation Buildings. I was back on Highway 55 which was now parallel in a train line. The west side of the cape was definitely more populated.

In Shimoyama at Cape Oyama the route left Highway 55 to follow the coast and avoid a long tunnel.
In town after town, I passed more four storey Tsunami Evacuation Buildings. It was terrifying to imagine a fifty foot wave barreling through here.

I rode through Aki, which was a good size town with several tall buildings. It was 1:30 PM, and rain was forecast for 5 PM. The route then led me to the amazing Kochi-Aki bicycle path that used the right-of-way from the former Tosa Electric Railway Aki Line. There were a few issues at the start and a construction detour in the middle, but it was mostly fantastic. I rode alongside the water, adjacent to the seawall, past beaches, and through groves of pine trees. It continued for quite a distance, and it was thrilling to be away from the motor traffic. There were several tunnels where the lights activated when I rode through. 

The bike path eventually came to an end, and I was dumped back onto Highway 55. I had been enjoying a pretty strong tailwind. I left Highway 55 and got on Route 14. I took a large bridge over the Monobe river. I could see the Kochi airport in front of me, as well as a huge mountain range in the distance.

I rode around the airport, climbed up a small hill, and went through a medium length tunnel. I came to the turn-off for Zenjibu-ji temple (Henro temple #32.) The climb wasn't as severe as the earlier temples, but nonetheless there was an ascent. The hill was jam packed with bamboo, and a large cemetery bordered the road. At the complex I washed my hands and rang the bell. There was a bus full of pilgrims queued up at the temple, so I didn't mount the steps. Adjacent to the temple were radio towers competing for the high ground. There was a great view of the harbor.

Back down at sea level I passed row after row of greenhouses and cemeteries behind the seawall. I made my way through an industrial area alongside the water. I rounded a large bend and could finally see Kochi, population 350,000, in the distance. It was starting to drizzle.

I got to my hotel, and they let me bring my bicycle up to my room. I laundred my jeresy and bib shorts, and began editing this report. For dinner I went to Sake Plate Hotari for the best sashimi I've ever had in my life.

Wild camping along the Shikoku coast at Meotoiwa

Henro pilgrim

Raiei Temple in Muroto

Mikuriyajin Cave in Muroto

Hotsumisaki-ji temple in Muroto

Hotsumisaki-ji temple in Muroto

Hotsumisaki-ji temple in Muroto

Me and fellow touring cyclist Mateus from Munich Germany

Nio guardian at Kōnomine-ji temple in Yasuda

Amazing Kochi-Aki bicycle path

Bus pilgrims at Zenjibu-ji temple in Nankoku 

Fantastic sashimi at Sake Plate Hotari in Kochi

Map / elevation profile




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