Japan Summer 2024 - Day 12 • Kochi to Nakatosa

Japan Summer 2024 - Day 12
June 9, 2024
Kochi to Nakatosa 68 Km
Start  9:46AM Finish 5:06PM
Total Duration 7:20
Moving Time 3:49
Stopped Time 3:31
Ascent 576m 
Descent  565m
Tour Total 1194 Km

I slept great in room 710 of the Bright Park Hotel in Kochi. My kit was clean, devices charged, and reports updated. It was forecast to rain all day, so I got up late and checked out close to the 10am deadline. Outside it was drizzly, gray, and dreary. It would be a short day of cycling through the rain. I was wearing my short-sleeve jersey, bib shorts, socks, and rain poncho. 

It was Sunday, and I enjoyed the weekly Kochi street market. I stopped at a taco stands that was run by a couple whom had briefly lived in Los Angeles. They made their own corn tortillas, and mentioned that a lot of corn was grown in this area. I relished a pork and a squash taco, and practiced my Japanese. 

I then rode over to and toured the Kochi Castle. The rain was really pouring and, in addition to checking my sandals, they made me store my poncho in a plastic bag. After the castle I rode out of town. My GPS was having difficulty loading the route and my phone screen doesn't work in the rain. It was a somewhat trying. Eventually my GPS started working

I rode through a tunnel and then through the 1,646m Yokohama tunnel, which I think was now the longest tunnel I've ever ridden through. It was dry inside the tunnels.

I was on Highway 14, and stopped at a Lawson's for a Café Boss latte and an onigiri. The rain was still coming down strong. I was a little chilly and added my gilet. I continued forward and went through another tunnel.

The route brought me to the coast and the waves were choppy today. I weaved in and around various inlets. At one point I bisected a peninsula by climbing and going through a tunnel.

Riding into Susaki I passed a Henro pilgrim with a white pocho that covered his backpack. I rode past the Sumitomo Osaka Cement Kochi Factory on the Oshioka river and got turned around at the Susaki port. There were stacks of timber and large ships. 

I had missed a turn and my phone screen wouldn't work. I knew that the route basically followed the coast, and I blindly continued forward. Once back on route I again stopped at another Lawsons. I tried to order myself a coffee from a machine, only to realize that I first needed to ask for a cup. In addition I purchased two breaded chicken tenders and another onigiri. I studied the last segment of the route, and left puddles of rain water where I had sat.

The route to Nakatosa took Highwat 320, a narrow curvy road that hugged the coast around Ono Cape. I came to a barrier that had closed the road. All of the signage was in kanji, and I proceeded. I was then met by a crab crossing the road. Is this why it had been closed? Was there danger ahead? If worse came to worse I could always turn around. The main highway, route 56, went straight to Nakatosa. 

It was a gorgeous stretch and I had it all to myself. The rain was strong, and there was water gushing everywhere. The waves were crashing below, and I encountered large rocks in the roadway. I then came to a fresh landslide which had buried the road. I tried to take a photo, but my phone screen was unresponsive. I turned around and retreated back to Highway 56.

After a climb, tunnel, and descent I entered the small town of Nakatosa. The route ended at a Roadside Station, and my plan was to go next door to the Kuroshio Honjin onsen. I arrived at 4:30pm and the onsen had closed at 4pm. They had no available rooms. Option B was to camp at the Roadside Station Nakatosa. I got there right before they closed the store, and purchased a bag full of goodies including several bottles of Tosaco IPA, brewed in Kochi. The rain continued to pour. I enjoyed my treats underneath an awning while I prepared this report.

Kochi Sunday morning market stall selling tacos

Kochi castle

Ono Cape route 320 closed due to an avalanche

Crabs in the road!

Stunning Ono Cape

Map / elevation profile




Location: Nakatosa, Takaoka District, Kochi, Japan

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Table of Contents

• 前置 • Table of Contents   • Introduction • Exploring Tokyo   • Day 1 Tokyo to Fujiyoshida • Day 2 Fujiyoshida to Fujimi • Day 3 Fujimi to Nojiri • Day 4 Nojiri to Minokamo • Day 5 Minokamo to Maibara • Day 6 Maibara to Kyoto • Two Off Days in Kyoto • Day 7 Kyoto to Nara • Day 8 Nara to Koyasan • Day 9 Koyasan (Honshu) to Anan (Shikoku) • Day 10 Anan to Meotoiwa • Day 11 Meotoiwa to Kochi • Day 12 Kochi to Nakatosa • Day 13 Nakatosa to Ohki Beach • Day 14 Ohki Beach to Ainan • Day 15 Ainan to Shimonada • Day 16 Shimonada to Imabari • Day 17 Imabari to Kami-kamagari Island • Day 18 Kami-kamagari Island to Matsuyama • Day 19 Kitakyushu (Kyushu) to Kunisaki • Day 20 Kunisaki to Yufu • Day 21 Yufu to Minamiaso • Day 22 Minamiaso to Kumamoto • Day 23 Kumamoto to Takachiho • Day 24 Takachiho to Hyuga • Day 25 Hyuga to Nichinan • Day 26 Nichinan to Kushima • Day 27 Kushima to Nejime • Day 28 Nejime roundtrip to Cape Sata • Epilogue • Stats • Gear Review • Other Tour Logs ⥢ prev   -home-   nex
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