Japan Summer 2024 - Day 13

June 10, 2024

Nakatosa to Ohki Beach 136 Km

Start 6:10 AM Finish 4:48 PM

Total Duration 10:38

Moving Time 7:13

Stopped Time 3:26

Ascent 835m

Descent 847m

Tour Total 1,330 Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/188835221

I had gone to bed last night without brushing my teeth. I slept well underneath the pavilion at the dog park at the Navasota Road Station. I hadn't realized last night that the Dog Park was divided into two sections; one for large dogs and another for small. The pavilion was in the small dog section. It was muddy and I did my best not to track it into the tent. This morning, my ground cloth was covered with mud and I hung it in the sun to dry. I went back over to the road station and purchased a Barista Latte from a vending machine.

Today's route I had gotten from a Japanese cyclist whom had circled Shikoku. I'd be climbing a thousand feet into the mountains and then descending along the Shimanto river. I was wearing my short-sleeve jersey, bib shorts, gilet, soggy socks, and soggy gloves.

A woman had brought her dog into the dog park while I was still packing up. It was a little embarrassing. That said, I've witnessed people sleeping at my dog park in Brooklyn, so there.

I saw something on social media this morning that bears repeating. Cycling brings the freedom that car ads promise. I began the day by steadily climbed up the Kure slope as mist was rising from below. The grade wasn't too bad, though I began to quickly heat up. I was on Highway 56 and quickly passed through two tunnels.

I pulled over to remove my gilet and start the Duane Train. I kept climbing, while crossing a bridge and passing through another tunnel. I then crossed the Osakadanibashi Bridge and was paralleling freeway E56 (the Kochi Expressway) with a new concrete span to the south.

I summited Nanako Pass at 7:23am. Businesses were closed up on the plateau. I noticed rice paddies, and green houses, and still have yet to see any corn or livestock. I rode through a small village, but there were no food services. Gas stations in Japan only sell fuel. I've often thought that petrol stations shouldn't be allowed to sell beer or alcohol. Japan takes it one step further.

I rode through the village of Nidda and pulled into the Aguri-Kubokawa Road Station. I could smell something good cooking, and people were waiting out front. It was 8am and just opening. I had two breakfasts; a hard boiled egg and toast, rice with goulash, two salads, two fruit dishes, two coffees, and two teas. I put on my UV arm protectors when I left, and then continued on 56. The route then began following the Shimanto river downstream on highway 381. The water was mint green. I passed two cyclists out for a day ride going in the other direction.

I entered a narrow valley with steep hills packed with trees. At one point, the river forked and the highway split to follow the fork. I then went through a tunnel and was back following the Shimanto river. My iPod was on the fritz and it was driving me crazy. I eventually stopped and attached headphones to my phone. I really don't prefer to listen to music this way. I like to be stealthy and have the cord underneath my jersey. It's illegal to ride a bicycle with earpods in Japan. Also I'm well familiar with all the music files on my phone. My phone earpod connection was also spotty. These problems were certainly due to all the moisture from yesterday. After a downhill, I rode through the village of Towa. I passed the Shimanto-Towa road station and then went through a long tunnel. I crossed a bridge and then went through another tunnel.

I rode through a series of tunnels and passed several submersible bridges. The decks were low above the water, especially on days like today after a heavy rain. I crossed the Hiromi river as it forked into the Shimanto. The sun had gone behind the clouds. It was gray and humid. I passed the Yotte Nishitosa road station.

I rode through a construction area and the flag people waved me through. Japanese people bow to one another. Sometimes I've been tipping my helmet, but there's no waving. Just then, a cyclist popped out from out of nowhere going the other direction and he waved to me. I crossed over the river and then passed through a 1900m tunnel.

I rode on a really narrow stretch of road that was only one lane wide. I had to be mindful of passing and oncoming traffic. The walls alongside the road were covered with thick moss. All of the oncoming hairpin turns in Japan have large convex mirrors so that oncoming traffic can yield.

I was now on highway 441. I rode through a construction area where they were widening the road and I admired the cute anime figure construction markers. I then passed through another tunnel. The valley had widened and I was met with a strong headwind.

The route strayed away from the river, and I went through several more tunnels. I was now following the Iwata river. As I rode into the Shimanto town center I spotted my ninth Japanese flag. I'm still keeping count.

I went to a ramen place called Shinatora Nakamura. The food had to be ordered through a vending machine that produced tickets that I gave to the server. Thank goodness I knew how to spell beer in both hiragana and katakana. I charged my devices which were running low on power. The gps draw must have had something to do with the narrow valley or all the tunnels. Shimanto had been my planned destination, but I wasn't feeling the vibe and I had more distance left in my legs.

I crossed over the Oshiro river and then took an immediate right along a bike path on the levee. I ended up on highway 20 and the Oshiro forked into the Shimanto, which I crossed. I then got on highway 321. I was back on the Round Shikoku route and following the blue road markers. I was now following 381 towards the Cape

I was on the Ashizuri Sunny Road, and had left the coast to cut across a land mass. I was climbing up a valley and the Tsuzofuchi River was to my left. I came to a 1600 m tunnel that took me to the other side of the pass. The sidewalk was on the other side of the road. The tunnels really throw off my GPS. Afterwards I followed the Shimonokae river downstream. I passed a pilgrim who was considerably loaded down with gear.

I stopped at a Lawsons and purchased provisions for beach camping. I then cyced to Ohki Beach, which is a popular surfing destination. I chose my camping spot right as the 5pm chime began to play. I had a log to sit on to edited this report, and I relished a dip in the ocean. It was the first time I'd ever swam on the Asian side of the Pacific.