Japan Summer 2024 - Day 14

June 11, 2024

Ohki Beach to Ainan 103 Km

Start 7:29 AM Finish 5:20 PM

Total Duration 9:51

Moving Time 5:26

Stopped Time 4:24

Ascent 939m

Descent 930m

Tour Total 1,433 Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/189152782

I slept well last night at Ohki Beach, which translates as big beach. I had checked the tide forecast before I set up my tent and felt comfortable there wouldn't be a rude awakening in the middle night. I set up near a big log where I could sit, edit yesterday's report, drink some beer, and eat onigeri and potato chips. The bugs were bad at twilight, but then they disappeared. Once it got dark the stars were amazing. I admired the crescent moon before I went to bed. I had to get up in the middle of the night and the stars were still blazing. The moon had disappeared.

I made the mistake of trying to dry out my poncho on top of my tent fly. There was incredible condensation during the night, and my poncho and fly were soaking wet in the morning. It got hot this morning in my tent, and it was time to get up. I was unable to charge my phone last night because of moisture in the charging port. It was at 4% this morning. I rely on my phone for just about everything. Imagine it dying. I kept fiddling with the charging cord, and finally got it to start charging. I carefully packed while trying to keep the sand out of everything. I stowed my wet fly and poncho separately. Surfers were in the waves while I was packing, and their families were there on the beach. I walked my bike back to the wooden bridge and then out to the road.

I was wearing my bib shorts and then donned my short-sleeve jersey for the ride. The morning air was still cool. I spotted another tsunami evacuation tower not far from where I had camped. Thank goodness that didn't happen last night. I came to a 500m tunnel and there was a wide bicycle lane which had a bicycle icon pavement marking.

I stopped in the Tosashimizu Asahimachi Lawsons and got myself a Craft Boss latte, a chocolate chip scone, and a custard & whipped cream mochi bread. The sun was appearing through the clouds.

The quiet clear turquoise water in the port of Asahimachi was tempting, yet I continued ahead. I was doing a half figure eight around the bottom of Cape Ashizuri. Starting on the eastern side, I had crossed to the western shore and would then be coming back up the eastern side to cross back over my path. I passed a pilgrim returning from Temple 38. This was where Carmen had seen monkeys.

I passed another pilgrim and then rode through a 1100m tunnel. The morning glories were in full bloom, as well as the hydrangeas which I've admired in various shades of blue, violet, crimson, pink, and white.

At the bottom of the cape I came to Kongōfuku-ji (Henro temple #38), which was my favorite to date. Firstly It was roadside and I didn't have to climb a ginormous hill to get to it. I loved the giant stone carved turtle at the entrance, as well as the gardens, pond and layout. I appropriately did the hand cleansing, bell ringing, and bowing ritual.

Afterwards I took advantage of the strong sun to dry out my fly and poncho in the parking lot. I also lubed and cleaned my chain which showed rust spots. While I was there one of the bus pilgrims gave me a piece of candy. I donned my UV arm protectors, and smeared some sunscreen on my face. I attempted to play the Duane train on my iPod, which was still on the fritz. I resorted to music from my phone.

As I left the temple I rode up a hill through a dense green forest on a single lane road, and I then descended to sea level. I rode through a Kubotsu Tosashimizu, a small fishing town with a ginormous sea wall.

I cycled past a fish smoking operation, which smelled absolutely delicious. There were cords of stacked firewood out on the road. As I continiued around the east side of the cape I could see Ohki Beach where I had camped last night.

I headed west and crossed paths with the route that I've been on earlier. I had now done a full loop around the bottom of the Cape. After my partial figure eight, I reconnected with the coast on the western side and began traveling north. The coastline here was rocky and rugged.

At noon I stopped at the Roadside Station Mejika-no-Sato Tosashimizu. I ran into a Japanese cyclist from Osaka, who was riding around Shikoku in the same direction. He was staying in hotels. I ordered my lunch through a vending machine and needed some help from locals with the kanji. It was the absolutely most amazing lunch consisting of shrimp and vegetable tempura, miso soup, sashimi, and beer on draft. The lunch came to less than 3000 ¥ ($20) and I challenge New York's finest Japanese restaurant to deliver something comparable for $100.

It was a work lunch, as I updating yesterday's photos and charged my devices. Afterwards I continued forward on Highway 361. The coast was rocky, and I passed through a short tunnel. I then crossed a bridge, and then went through a thousand meter tunnel. Then I went through a 700 m tunnel. I realize that I'm obsessed with the tunnels here. We don't have many of them in the US. They're expensive to build. That said, they require less maintenance and are less disruptive to the landscape. Highway 321 then cut away from the coast. It was 77°F, partly cloudy, and humid.

I rode through the small village of Otsuki. There was a 1000m tunnel on the far side and road crews were clearing weeds. After another tunnel I rode into Otsuki town. I rode through a pair of tunnels as I was riding into Otsuki. I passed a loaded touring cyclist going in the other direction. She waved, but didn't stop. I stopped at the Otsuki Road station for a vanilla soft serve ice cream with honey. I then switched to the next route section on my GPS and continued forward.

I crossed the Matsuda river and rode through the town of Sukumo. I took Highway 56 out of town and went through a short tunnel. I went through another tunnel and then found myself in a narrow valley hemmed by tall steep hills. I was following the Saikado River river upstream. The grade wasn't too bad and I was in my large front ring.

I saw a woman selling ice cream on the side of the road and decided to stop. Her name was Makiko and she lived down the road. She had made the ice cream herself. We complained about the humidity, and she gave me a hard time and said that I had a big stomach. We had some good laughs. My japanese teacher this spring was named Makiko.

I entered Ehime prefecture and passed through the Masaki tunnel. I then rode through another tunnel. Up on the plateau, I cycled past planted fields, rice patties, small businesses, and solar farms. I passed another pilgrim who was on his way to Temple number 40.

I enjoyed a nice long downhill and then started climbing again. I cut across a land mass and began cycling west to the sea. There was another tunnel at the top, then a dip, and then another tunnel. Finally I began a descent into Ainan. I got to Kanjizai-ji (Henro temple 40) just a few minutes before they closed at 5 PM. I had the complex to myself and had the routine down. I washed my hands, took a sip of water, washed my hands again, rang the bell, and then went to the temple and did a bow.

The 5pm chime began playing. It's so cute that this occurs all over Japan. There was a nearby ryokan and I rode over to see if they had any rooms. Mr. Yamashiro was incredibly friendly. He let me store my bike in the lobby. He helped my launder my kit. I took a shower and hot bath, and he brought me Japanese oranges. And then I went to Daiju for an amazing steak dinner. I still haven't seen a single cow in Japan and I asked my sever about this. She assured me that there were ranches.

I picked up some provisions and a new EarPod set at Lawsons before heading back to the ryokan.