Japan Summer 2024 - Day 24 • Takachiho to Hyuga

June 01, 2024

Japan Summer 2024 - Day 24

June 21, 2024

Takachiho to Hyuga 97 Km

Start 7:55 AM Finish 7:25 PM

Total Duration 11:30

Moving Time 5:41

Stopped Time 5:49

Ascent 757 m

Descent 1,058 m

Tour Total 2,486 Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/193094765

I slept for about ten hours last night at the Guest House Shizuho in Takachiho, and I really needed it. I slumbered atop a futon placed upon a tatami mat floor. My pillow was filled with gravel. Japanese pillows are seriously heavy and they're not fluffy. Instead of sheets there was a heavy duvet. I believe it rained all night long, but there was a nearby stream so who knows. Today there was a sixty percent chance of rain, and my fingers were crossed that I'd get lucky. Last night I had showered and this morning I shaved. I was level one clean and ready to ride.

I packed up and brought everything out to the bike. I didn't see the proprietor before I left. A slight mist was falling from the sky, and I had my poncho ready. I stopped at a Yamazaki shop for a Georgia coffee latte and a chocolate bread. I was in a new prefecture and things were different here.

I next stopped at the Takachiho shrine, which was up a set of stairs located back in a dark forest, and surrounded by humongous tall cedar trees. It was early, and there were morning prayers being practiced by the monks. A Japanese person was taking a video, so I felt the liberty to do likewise. I couldn't believe how big the trees were. I then rode deep down into the Takachiho Gorge and couldn't believe how stunning it was. The gorge lies in a narrow chasm cut through the basalt by the Gokase River. I stopped in the middle of a bridge to admire the seventeen meter high Minainotaki waterfall cascading down to the river below. Because of yesterday's rain, water was flowing everywhere. I hiked as much of the path that was open. Because of yesterday's rain much of the park including the boat rental were unfortunately closed. That said, the heightened energy of all that turgid fast-moving water made it worth it.

I witnessed seven women holding hands, singing, walking through the park, and doing some kind of mystical ritual. It was partly cloudy as I climbed my way back up out of the gorge. I was wearing my short-sleeve jersey and bib shorts. Back in town I noticed small lanterns on stone pedestals that reminded me of Joseph Beuys' 7000 Oaks in New York. In addition to the lanterns there were green illuminated signs placed on lamp posts placed throughout town. One of them in English said friend. I believe it was tied into the mysticism here. I then pedaled out of town.

I would be riding to the coast today. I was a little sad about leaving the mountain region here in Kyushu. It was really special and definitely a highlight. I was on highway 218 headed to Nobeoka. Compared to yesterday in the rain, today's cycling was spectacular. I stopped at Roadside station Seiunbashi for a homemade curry cutlet and an Asahi. Out front they had a bike pump. Damn this country is seriously civilized. Before I departed, I donned my UV arm protectors and stowed my poncho, Immediately after the road station I crossed the ginormous Seiunbashi Bridge. The green Hinokage River was way below. I then rode through a tunnel.

I continued riding up and down through the rolling hills. I crossed the Gokase River twice over two large bridges. The river was in a gorge deep below. At 11:30am I entered the municipality of Nobeoka. I was still far from the center of town.

I enjoyed a long descent and came to the wide brown Gokase River which I began following. My route split away from highway 218 and I continued to follow the river. I came to a construction area where the road was closed. I hopped the barricades and continued forward. I came to the work area where they were widening the cut. The construction workers were on lunch break when I approached. I apologized and asked if it was OK to proceed, and they allowed me.

I eventually got back on a more central road and stopped at Lawson's for a fruit drink. Nobeoka, population 113,367, was a clean small town. Here the Gokase and Okase Rivers empty into the sea. I was now back on the coast, and would be for basically the rest of the tour.

I switched to my next route segment 35a and rode through the sprawl going south on four-lane highway 10. I had been on this highway when I first arrived on Kyushu, and there were still mileage signs telling me how far away I had traveled from Koji. My route criss-crossed the main highway meandering on side roads where I got to see the local flavor.

I eventually reached the Kanegahama Coast, which is a popular surfing destination. I noticed surf shops and guesthouses. I stopped at the Michi-no-Eki Hyuga road station where I charged my devices and enjoyed some sashimi and a Gojuko. I then explored a few wild camping options and settled on the Minatohashira Shrine, which is a Shinto Shrine located on a small hiil above the sea. I have never seen so many crabs in all my life. All sizes. Today is the summer solstice and the longest day of the year. I'm so lucky to be here.