Japan Summer 2024 - Day 25

June 22, 2024

Hyuga to Nichinan to 141 Km

Start 7:45 AM Finish 7:46 PM

Total Duration 12:01

Moving Time 8:11

Stopped Time 3:51

Ascent 860 m

Descent 881 m

Tour Total 2,627 Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/193666910

I slept well last night at the Minatohashira Shrine outside of Hyuga. Last night I sat on the steps and drank beer until it was time to go to bed. I set up my tent on the edge of the complex near a deep crevasse that spring water led through. Below where the crashing waves of the Hyūga Sea. Passenger trains went by during the night and I slept with my earplugs. It began to rain before dawn, and my sandals had been left outside and the side flaps on my tent fly hadn't been closed. It was misty when I got up this morning, and I used the dry area under the eaves of the shrine to pack. Mosquitoes attempted to ravish me.

The route took me through the historic district of Mimitsu. The stone paved street led through wooden housing with sliding doors. Through the slats I could see traditional interiors with tatami mats. Unfortunately it was raining so hard and I couldn't use my phone to get decent documentation. There was a museum, but I was soaking wet and didn't want to cause a disturbance. I continued to pedal south, and rode along the coast. I passed by a beach and then rode through agricultural fields, and past greenhouses and rice patties.

The route then brought me to the Tsuno Roadside Station. I was hungry but the kitchen hadn't yet opened, so I got a bunch of sugary breakfast treats; Georgia coffee, donut holes, lycee fruit, and a pastry.

After the road station, the precipitation stopped for a bit. And the rain got real heavy. I was riding in my poncho and couldn't use my phone. The precipitation finally stopped and I strapped my poncho to my rear rack. I rode through fields sowed with beans and corn, and I passed cattle barns.

The route veered inland away from the coast. Here I encountered numerous Kofun, which are megalithic tombs that were constructed between the the third century to the early seventh century AD. I visited the Oni-no-Iwaya Tumulus burial mound which had a moat and an underground chamber created with ginormous boulders.

I was hungry as I rode into Saito, and I was lucky to spot Lifelong burger stand where I enjoyed a double cheeseburger with fries, along with an Asahi. Heading out of Saito there was a fantastic bike lane. The rain had stopped, but the pavement was still wet. It was now hot and humid.

Four lane Highway 218 heading south to Miyazaki had a fantastic wide asphalt cycling/pedestrian lane adjacent to the highway. I then got on another path following the Sanzai and the the Hitotsuse Rivers. I rode through clouds of dragonflies, and crabs were scurrying across the road. It was a bird feeding fest out here today. The puddles were deep and thank goodness for my fenders. The sun had come back out and it was partly cloudy.

I then found myself back on the coast, riding along the beach. There were surfers riding the waves. The bike path continued south through Awakigahara Forest Park. I didn't see a motor vehicle for the longest time. I came to an area where house cats had congregated. I occasionally encountered pedestrians walking along the path. It was fantastic.

The sun came out and the path color turned sienna. The experience was even more splendid. The route eventually brought me to a park and marina on the outskirts of Miyazaki, population 400,000. The route took me by the port where I saw a ferry bound for Kobe. I switched to my next route segment number 36a.

I crossed a long bridge over the Ōyodo River and dealt with a ferocious headwind. I wound my way through the town and around the airport. I spotted my thirty second Japanese flag and fourth Rising Sun flag. The rising sun would be synonymous with a US confederate flag.

I rode away from Miyazaki on a one-lane agricultural road past rice that was almost ready for harvest. I then cut over to the main highway. I was on another fantastic bike lane alongside highway 220 which was lined with palm trees.

I rode out past the Hinata Sun Marine Stadium and cut through a park. I then found myself back on the shore. There was a nice wide beach where people were sunbathing and surfing.

I crossed over the Kaeda River and then found myself on another fantastic bike path running alongside Aoishini promenade. Many people had bike racks for their surfboards. I rode across a bridge to Aoishini Island to visit the beautiful shrine. The coastline here was a beautiful and I regretted not booking a room here. Back out on highway 220 there there were blue chevron bicycle pavement markings, along with bicycle icons.

I had made a tactical error at lunch when I booked a room in Nichinan, which still was 50 km in the distance. It was 5:30pm and it would take several more hours to reach my destination. Today would end up being a much longer day than what I had anticipated.

I was now on the Nichinan Phoenix Road. I stopped at the Phoenix road station for two vending machine fruit juices. The road station services were closed. The coast here was beautiful and the road was lined with palm trees. Blue water was crashing against the rocks below.

There were bicylce pavement markings for Nichinan as I continued south along the coast. Inland the hills grew immediately, and were densely packed with cedar. Dark clouds hung above. I wanted to get to the Udo shrine and my destination before it got dark so I started taking tunnels instead of hugging the coast.

I turned off to go to the Udo-jingu Shrine. I parked my bike and walked up a series of stairs. I walked through a tunnel, and then descended more stairs. By the time I got to the shrine it was closed. Through the gates I could see that it was beautiful, and I wish that I could've gone inside.

I finally made it to Nichinan. I stopped at a Lawsons for some provisions. I had booked a room at the Aburatsu Hostel and was staying in room number one. I immediately hung my wet gear, took a shower, and laundered my kit. I sat at a table in the collective area to edit this report.