Japan Summer 2024 - Day 26

June 23, 2024

Nichinan to Kushima 100 Km

Start 8:53 AM Finish 7:30 PM

Total Duration 10:37

Moving Time 6:41

Stopped Time 3:56

Ascent 1,478 m

Descent 1,478 m

Tour Total 2,727 Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/194155569

I slept great at the Aburatsu Hostel in Nichinan, in room number one. I was able to dry my equipment, launder my kit, shower, shave, and charge my devices. This morning it was a slow pack up and I couldn't find my glasses case, which drove me crazy. I later found them in my pants pocket, which had been packed.

There was a heavy downpour right before I left. The hostel was located in the central part of the city, and it's entrance was underneath an arcade. I navigated back to the route and climbed out of town where I was met with a tunnel. There was a sign that banned pedestrians, bicycles, and rickshaws from the tunnel. It was the first such sign I'd seen. The route took me around the tunnel hugging the coast, and it was overgrown with weeds. Today it was hot and clammy.

As forecast, it was extremely windy today. It would sprinkle and then stop. I was riding in my short-sleeve jersey and bib short. My poncho was at the top of my pannier in case I needed it.

I stopped at a Lawsons for a cream-filled pastry, two donuts, and a Craft Boss latte. It sprinkled while I sat there. The coast was dotted with small fishing villages and I believe this was my favorite Japanese coast yet.

I was two days from Cape Sata, my final destination. The tour was soon coming to an end. After I reached Cape Sata I would need to pedal to Kagoshima to get a train. If the weather held I could continue to ride up the western coast, which I heard was stunning. But if the rain continued, I would end the tour and take the train to Osaka for a few days before returning to Tokyo. My bike was filthy, jersey faded, bib-shorts torn, and much of my gear was muddy, tattered, and no longer functioning. It's been a good adventure.

The route cut away from the coast and up into the hills. I would then be doubling back around to Cape Toi. I climbed to the top of the pass and went through a tunnel. I then descended down the other side. I had the small road to myself, surrounded by large cedar trees. The pavement was filled with large puddles.

I descended into a valley replete with rice patties. Much of the rice was just about ready for harvest. I then began climbing again. The fierce wind continued. On the second pass, I encountered a father and son with a net. They were catching stag beetles. I asked why, and if they ate them. The pinchers were dangerous and that's about all I could understand. I later learned that stag beetles are valuable in Japan.

I rode back down into the valley and was met with a strong headwind. In Kushima I went to Onoya, which was listed as a point of interest on the route. The sashimi, rice, salad, and miso soup was one of the best lunches I've had in Japan. Along with two beers the lunch cost ¥1400 ($15). Just incredible.

I then followed the route east to Cape Toi, and I noticed a wind farm up on a hilltop ahead. I passed the Kushima spa, which had also been listed as a point of interest. Perhaps I'd visit on my way back from the cape.

It was hot and I was doing a lot of climbing. I stopped to remove my UV arm protectors and jersey at the top of one of the hills. I went through a few tunnels and then I went flying down a huge hill to sea level. I could see where I was going and the cape stretched out ahead.

After more climbing I entered the Cape Toi park and came to a pay booth. Unlike the motor vehicles, I was waved through. There were signs warning not to feed or interact with the wild horses and monkeys.

I came to an area with large grassy slopes, dotted with hydrangeas and palm trees. I rounded a bend and was greeted with wild horses. They seemed friendly, but the signs said not to approach them so I obliged.

Cape Toi was lush and expansive. It was my third major Japanese cape, after the two I rode around in Shikoku. This was the nicest yet, but it was bittersweet because the next cape would be my last. On my way to the lighthouse I was climbing a hill and a Japanese touring cyclist passed me going in the other direction. His panniers were somewhat tattered, and he was this first touring cyclist I'd encountered in Kyushu.

It was ¥300 to go up to the lighthouse and the balcony was closed. I wasn't able to bring my bike and get a photo of it in front. I asked the attendant if it was always so windy, and she replied that it wasn't.

Next I decided to ride to Kojima Island, an island inhabited by one hundred monkeys. They're known as 'cultured monkeys' because they wash potatoes in sea water and swim in the ocean for pleasure.

I had seen the road signs and couldn't get any information online, so I followed the signs and rode there as fast as I could. I assumed that I would need to take a ferry and wanted to get there before they closed. When I finally arrived at the parking area, I was the only person there. I talked with some people who were fishing out on a pier. There was no way to get to the island, and it was supposed to be viewed from the shore. It was extremely windy and sprinkling again. I needed to get back to Kushima and ended up cutting across the cape and taking the same route as this morning. While still on the coast I rode past a tsunami evacuation tower

I rode Highway 48 once again over the two passes to Kushima. I remembered much of the landscape and landmarks. The wind was still really strong. At 5:22pm the sun emerged from the gray sky. I rode into Kushima and went to the road station to charge my devices. All of the outlets were locked and there were no outlets in the bathroom. I rode over to Lawsons for provisions and spied an outlet at the train station. I sat on a bench and edited this report, while my hungry devices charged. I learned that Lawsons had free WiFi that I could use to upload photos to Blogger.

I then rode over to Fukushimagawa Kasen Historical Park on the banks of the Fukushima River. When I was Googling parks I was looking for locations with picnic tables and pavilions. I arrived just before dusk and got lucky. The wind was still quite brisk as I uploaded this report.