Japan Summer 2024 - Day 6 • Maibara to Kyoto

June 20, 2024

Japan Summer 2024 - Day 6

June 1, 2024

Maibara to Kyoto 87Km

Start 6:08AM Finish 1:39PM

Total Duration 7:23

Moving Time 5:05

Stopped Time 2:19

Ascent 588m

Descent 637m

Tour Total 647Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/184927697

I slept well in the Maiharakita Park on the stone pavement underneath an awning. There was a nearby drinking fountain and water faucet, along with bathroom facilities. My new earplugs are fantastic. The highway was a few hundred meters away as well as a train line, and yet I heard nothing. I rolled over a couple times during the night and had to use the bathroom. The bird sounds were muffled in the morning. The sun rise was at 4:41 AM, and I rolled over and tried to get a little bit more sleep. I climbed out of my tent at 5:30 Am. I was packed up and out of there before anyone knew I had been. The park was ringing by housing, and there was a house not 50 feet from the pavilion.

I continued along the route. It was chilly, and I was wearing my bib shorts, short sleeve jersey, leg-warmers, gilet, and rain jacket. Along the way I spotted a shrine and stopped for a moment. I've now seen numerous examples of Jizo, groups of arranged standing stones adorned with red aprons or hats. They're said to be made in the image of Jizo Bosatsu, guardian deity of children and travellers. They supposedly have a spiritual power for protection. The practice predates Buddhism. Next I came to large castle walls surrounded by a moat, and I crossed a bridge over the moat to investigate. Hikone Castle also had an inner stone wall and another moat. It didn't open until 8 AM, so I continued west.

I made my way to the shore of Lake Biwa, the largest lake in Japan. I rode south along its shore and could see mountains rising on the west shore. I was beginning to get warm, and stopped at a 7-Eleven for a Starbucks latte, some chocolate filled pastries and a puffy Japanese cheesecake. While I was sitting there, the sun came out and it was strong. I removed my rain jacket and leg-warmers. It was Saturday morning and there were tons of cyclists taking advantage of the nice day. I passed more rice patties with the grain ready for harvest.

There were so many cyclists riding around Lake Biwa. I noticed gaggles of geese above in V formations. Meanwhile the cyclists were flying down the highway in pelotons.

The route left the highway and clung close to the lake. I rode up and down rolling hills through a wooded area, and it was really nice. The route eventually returned to the highway, bringing with it buildings and traffic. I ran into Lam, En, and Vincent from Singapore, who were doing a three month tour. They had started in Seoul and had crossed to Fukuoka and toured Kyushu and Shikoku. They were staying in hotels, as they didn't feel comfortable wild camping with three people. I was the first other cyclist they had met touring. They had been going for three months and would soon be finished in Osaka.

I spotted two American flags, one in front of the Miami RV park and another in front of a campground. Last evening I noticed the second Japanese flag I'd seen, which was in front of a school. The score was now two all.

I then ran into Japanese cyclist Nakatsukasa who was just doing a two night tour. He was completely loaded up with front and rear bags plus a backpack. He was a photographer and he was camping.

I crossed the Biwako bridge, and on the far side found myself in the middle of sprawl. I stopped to take a photo of a ginormous crab. Unfortunately the restaurant wasn't yet open. As I pedaled away from the lake I noticed that I had a big climb ahead of me. I stopped at a 7-Eleven for two onigeris and a lemon drink.

Two-lane Highway 367 had moderate traffic as I climbed up over the hill. I was surrounded by bushes, trees, and bamboo groves. All of the LED warning signs here display the temperature. It was 21°C.

I climbed up over a ridge and then enjoyed a nice long downhill through a valley with steep hills to either side, which were packed with trees. I was following the Takano river, and there was a lot of motor traffic. I noticed temples and sightseeing attractions along the highway.

I finally reached the Kyoto metropolitan area. The bike lanes were marked with sienna-colored chevrons. It was blazing hot and sunny, and rode to my ryokan and dropped off my bags. I then cycled to the Ryoanji Temple. Along the way I stopped at a ramen place for a sumptuous lunch.

After the Ryoanji Temple I went to the Kinkaru-ji Golden Pavilion, which had splendid glow in the afternoon light. I pedaled over to the Gion area and enjoyed the Nishi-romon Gate. I stopped for a few beers before returning to my ryokan for check-in and a nice shvitz in the onsen.