Japan Summer 2024 - Day 5

May 31, 2024

Minokamo to Maibara 101 Km

Start 9:14AM Finish 7:25PM

Total Duration 10:11

Moving Time 6:45

Stopped Time 3:25

Ascent 504m

Descent 485m

Tour Total 560Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/184441017

It rained bucket loads last night, so I made the right decision to stay at the Hotel R9 The Yard. Cargo container #6 was nice. I stayed up until after midnight editing yesterday's report. These reports take a lot of work, but it's better to do it in the field, then wait until I get home. I'm burning the candle here at both ends.

I forgot to mention that the past two last nights, at both the onsen and the hotel here in Minokamo, I've been issued robes to wear. I also failed to mention that last night while riding to the restaurant I noticed school children riding home from school on their bikes who were wearing white shirts with ties.

I had a bit of a late start this morning due to the persistent precipitation. Not soon after my departure I spotted the Kobi-jinja Shrine and decided to investigate. Shrines are everywhere in Japan and I can't stop at all of them. I have to pick and choose. I'm a sucker for the giant tassels. Three of them are always hung from the Shimenawa, the sacred rope at the entrance torii gate.

Within the complex, I spotted the first Japanese flag I'd seen since I arrived in Japan last week. In the US flags are ubiquitous. Instead of fixing the infrastructure and giving everyone proper healthcare and education, it's cheaper to just put flags everywhere and posture that we're great. Speaking of patriotism, my phone was lit up when I woke up this morning. Donald Trump had been found guilty of 34 counts of falsifying business records and paying off a porn star.

It was overcast, and the streets were wet and filled with puddles. I was wearing my bib shorts, short sleeve jersey, and smelly socks from days one and two. I was a little chilly and the forecast called for more drizzle this morning. After that, the next few days were supposed to be clear. There would be minimal climbing on my way to Kyoto.

I stopped at a family Mart for a Craft Boss latte and two breakfast treats（おかし). The route then led me over to the milky green Kiso River, which was quite wide at this point. There was a bike, running, and walking path along the top of levy which I followed downstream. There were still tree covered bluffs rising up from the valley. The bike path came to an end and I ended up back on two-lane heavily-trafficked Highway 207.

The valley was now heavily populated. I rode through densely-packed neighborhoods of newly constructed homes. I made my way to the Inuyama bridge and crossed over the river. There were modern office buildings, as well as a castle structure on a hilltop to my right.

I rode up to up to the Inuyama Castle, which I know from my Japanese studies means dog mountain. The Sanko Inari jinja Shrine was packed with people. Love fortunes were displayed all over the place, and they were available for sale. I noticed women dressed in kimonos, and I saw several tourists from India. A family dressed in traditional garb was offering spring water to their young child.

In the sky I noticed a succesion of dark green, ostensibly American, military aircraft landing nearby. I rode down a street filled with tourist shops. It was thronging with mostly Japanese sightseers.

I kept following the river downstream through the flood plain past planted fields, industry, and housing. The rain was holding. I was on busy Highway 183 riding a path on the other side of the guard rail.

I then entered through the fantastic Kisogawafuso Ryouchi Park which boasted incredible playgrounds. I continued on a wonderful bike path and noticed a giant St. Louis arch/Seattle space needle-like structure in the distance, the Twin Arch 138. On the other side of the river I could see a humongous Ferris wheel, the Oasis Wheel.

In front of the the Twin Arch I met some friendly women who were strolling around the area on bicycles. In my primitive Japanese, I described my journey, and they were amazed how far I come. The fantastic bike path continued.

I crossed back over the river, which at this point was extremely wide with sandbars and numerous channels. I could see Gifu spread out ahead, with modern buildings in the downtown area. Gifu was destroyed by an earthquake in 1891 and then later decimated during World War Two.

I rode through a vast industrial area, yet even here were planted plots with kale and other vegetables. Densely packed housing was crammed with warehouses and businesses.

I ended up in the center of town and discovered porticos and enclosed pedestrian arcades where bikes could be ridden alongside pedestrians. I rode out to the Nagara river to see the Shoho-ji (Gifu Great Buddha). I also admired a gorgeous three-story pagoda in Gifu park. I neglected to take the ropeway up to the castle. The park was nestled against steep hills.

On my way back into the center of the town I heard my first horn honk in Japan. A motorist was sitting still in traffic and a city bus tapped to get them moving.

The sidewalks have yellow tracks in the middle for the vision impaired to use with their canes. There's an elaborate tactile system, indicating turns and intersections.

I went to the Brown Dot for some Takoyaki and a ginger soda. It was chilly and on my way out of town I stopped to don my gilet. I stair-stepped out through the sprawl. Right-hand turns are the worst when motorists are driving on the left-hand side of the road.

I passed a large gaggle of children, leaving from school and walking home. They were all wearing yellow caps and had yellow backpacks. Street crossing guards were on every intersection. This place is so civilized!

On the far edge of town, I passed grape arbors and factories. I could smell livestock, but saw none. I took a bridge over the Nagara river. A cyclist coming towards me on the bridge was barefoot. Take that everybody who gives me a hard time for riding in my sandals!

I was now on a fantastic bike path and passed a pachinko and slot machine parlor. The dense areas of Japan remind me of similar such areas in northern Italy. Both have narrow streets, densely packed small houses, and neatly manicured yards with plants and flowers.

I rode through fields with long greenhouses. Huge mountains were in the distance. Another large town, Ohaki, was in the distance where I could see large modern buildings.

I came to a beautiful thatched wall and circled around to find the entrance. I went inside and discovered a beautiful bamboo grove and garden. I talked to a groundskeeper, but couldn't understand him. It was the Shoan-ji Temple.

I crossed the small Ai river near Tarui station. There was a strong headwind and I was cold. I stopped in a Family Mart for a Craft Boss latte, and a tray of onigeri and noodles, along with a tray of mackerel. I took a moment to deal with all the loose change I had in my change purse. I segregated the large coins from the small. Vending machines only take 10 Yen and up.

I switched over to a Length of the Japan route section, which would take me to Lake Biwa and Kyoto. I also donned my rain jacket and legwarmers. It was 5:43pm and I had no idea where I would be sleeping tonight.

Highway 21 had throngs of motor traffic, and I was missing Julia's stair-stepping route. That said there was a sidewalk on the other side of the guard rail where I could ride. A few bits were off the highway, but then I was back on it running parallel to a freeway and train tracks. I was in a busy corridor hemmed by hills.

I noticed a few cans and bottles along the highway, and I passed several love hotels. I saw a sign that Kyoto was 80 km away. It was almost sunset and I needed a place to sleep. I Googled parks and found one close by. I stopped at a store for a few provisions. The clerk made a mistake with my change and I was able to correct her in Japanese.

The 'park' didn't exist and I found myself in the middle of an insect infested rice paddy. I again Google mapped parks and rode 7Km to Maibarakita Park, which was a small grass area in the middle of a housing development. there was a pavilion with benches, where I edited this report. It also had bathrooms. I feel a tad bit self-conscious, but it's dark and I've heard that it ok do to do this in Japan. I'll be setting up my tent in a moment. Tomorrow I'll be in Kyoto.